Discussion:
Estes Rocket Will Not Launch
(too old to reply)
m***@gmail.com
2014-04-21 21:03:27 UTC
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I also have the same launch controller, which I think is a very cheaply made & ugly looking, Inadequate controller. The old Estes Electron Beam launch controller worked better every time & looked less like a toddler's Fisher Price toy.
b***@gmail.com
2014-05-09 20:52:44 UTC
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(Solved) I know this thread is old looks like its from 1996 lol its 2014 now, 18 years later but i havent seen any answers when i was searching online for a solution. I used a 9v battery from the dollar store and that wasnt sending strong enough power to ignite the igniter so i switched the cheap battery for an Energizer battery and it worked.
p***@netcito.com
2014-06-27 01:07:48 UTC
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Post by b***@gmail.com
(Solved) I know this thread is old looks like its from 1996 lol its 2014 now, 18 years later but i havent seen any answers when i was searching online for a solution. I used a 9v battery from the dollar store and that wasnt sending strong enough power to ignite the igniter so i switched the cheap battery for an Energizer battery and it worked.
Same thing here. I was using a Radio Shack alkaline battery. When I inserted the safety key, the white light glowed brightly but the fuse did not ignite. When I replaced the battery with a Duracell alkaline battery, it worked.
n***@gmail.com
2014-08-20 17:33:06 UTC
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I have been Mr. El Cheapo as well with a dollar store battery. Thank you guys, I will try this!
b***@gmail.com
2014-11-29 18:31:54 UTC
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I bought one for my son recently it takes a 9 volt battery I set the engine right and connectors are not igniting I even got straight wires connected it to a 9 volt still no light went thru 9 engines any ideas why??
Joe Pfeiffer
2014-11-30 03:53:39 UTC
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Post by b***@gmail.com
I bought one for my son recently it takes a 9 volt battery I set the
engine right and connectors are not igniting I even got straight wires
connected it to a 9 volt still no light went thru 9 engines any ideas
why??
It's hard to guess from that description... when you say the motors are
not lighting, and you've gone through nine motors my immediate question
is, are the igniters lighting? If the igniters aren't lighting, the
problem is somewhere in the electrical connections. If the igniters are
lighting and the motors aren't, somehow the igniters aren't up high
enough in the nozzle.
b***@gmail.com
2014-12-21 03:28:50 UTC
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Hey guys i bought a taser rocket set and my controller doesnt seem to work i even got it excjanged but id doesnt light igniters the liggt turns on and everything but there is no electricution i have tested on myself there is no shock or anything i have tried to do everything but my igniters dont get hot or catch fire
Joe Pfeiffer
2014-12-21 04:32:37 UTC
Permalink
Post by b***@gmail.com
Hey guys i bought a taser rocket set and my controller doesnt seem to
work i even got it excjanged but id doesnt light igniters the liggt
turns on and everything but there is no electricution i have tested on
myself there is no shock or anything i have tried to do everything but
my igniters dont get hot or catch fire
It's really hard to diagnose something like this over usenet... you
wouldn't expect to feel any sort of shock, the current and voltage used
by a rocket ignition system is far too low for that.

Do you have a local model rocket club you can turn to for help? If you
post your city, we could see if there is a National Association of
Rocketry section near you; you could go to one of their launches and get
help.
NWMoMike
2014-12-21 15:20:37 UTC
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A real easy test is take the battery out and connect an ignitor over the battery to see it has enough energy to even fire an ignitor. Process of elimination, either the battery is weak or the ignitor circuitry is crap. I ended building my own. Rechargeable batteries work better as they can dump more current for the standard launchers. The one I made uses D cell regular batteries so always plenty of power.

Michael
f***@gmail.com
2015-02-02 16:23:55 UTC
Permalink
Post by b***@gmail.com
(Solved) I know this thread is old looks like its from 1996 lol its 2014 now, 18 years later but i havent seen any answers when i was searching online for a solution. I used a 9v battery from the dollar store and that wasnt sending strong enough power to ignite the igniter so i switched the cheap battery for an Energizer battery and it worked.
Bless you! I was having the same problem.
p***@gmail.com
2015-04-17 12:24:11 UTC
Permalink
Post by f***@gmail.com
Post by b***@gmail.com
(Solved) I know this thread is old looks like its from 1996 lol its 2014 now, 18 years later but i havent seen any answers when i was searching online for a solution. I used a 9v battery from the dollar store and that wasnt sending strong enough power to ignite the igniter so i switched the cheap battery for an Energizer battery and it worked.
Bless you! I was having the same problem.
Wished I had seen this thread before. Same problem I had. You have to use an Alkaline battery, as it says on the battery hatch (and instructions?).

It's not enough to have a brand new battery that puts out enough voltage. It is actually the current that matters.

The cheap battery I got was a Carbon-Zink battery. Estes puts right on the battery hatch "Alkaline", but I assumed that's what I had and didn't double check. I googled "9V capacity Carbon Zinc vs. Alkaline", and found an excellent site comparing outputs of different batteries. I was astounded at how little current the Carbon-Zinc supplied.

http://www.powerstream.com/9V-Alkaline-tests.htm

So if your igniter isn't working, double check you have a good quality Alkaline battery in the remote.

(The way I found out that the problem was the lack of current was I used two of my Carbon-Zinc 9V batteries in parallel, and the igniter burned)
p***@gmail.com
2015-04-17 12:28:17 UTC
Permalink
...
Forgot to mention. I'd also recommend Alkaline batteries in those remotes using AA batteries. Seems like overlooking the instructions and using the wrong type is a common mistake.
m***@gmail.com
2015-04-28 00:18:58 UTC
Permalink
Had similar problems with one of the Estes "starter" sets recently (comes with two rockets in a box, one rocket is labeled "Rascal").
Cannot get the engines to light. New Energizer alkalines, even tested an igniter on its own just connected to a 9v with clip leads and sure enough, it gets read hot. When it is suffed up inside the engine on the launch pad, we can hear it sizzle, and then... nothing.

Tried a length of cannon fuse stuck up in the engine. Lit the fuse, it burned just like the fuse on a stick of dynamite. The fuse burned right up to the engine and then... nothing.

I remember launching lots of them when I was a kid in the 70s, and they would light with just about anything. Battery and clip leads, even a length of masking tape as a makeshift "fuse" shoved up in the engine hole and lit with a lighter would work.
I've never seen these things just not light, especially with a flame right up on them.

Are these solid fuel engines sometimes duds?

Thanks.
m***@gmail.com
2015-04-28 00:20:57 UTC
Permalink
Had similar problems with one of the Estes "starter" sets recently (comes with two rockets in a box, one rocket is labeled "Rascal").
Cannot get the engines to light. New Energizer alkalines, even tested an ignitor on its own just connected to a 9v with clip leads and sure enough, it gets red hot. When it is suffed up inside the engine on the launch pad, we can hear it sizzle, and then... nothing.

Tried a length of cannon fuse stuck up in the engine. Lit the fuse, it burned just like the fuse on a stick of dynamite. The fuse burned right up to the engine and then... nothing.

I remember launching lots of them when I was a kid in the 70s, and they would light with just about anything. Battery and clip leads, even a length of masking tape as a makeshift "fuse" shoved up in the engine hole and lit with a lighter would work.
I've never seen these things just not light, especially with a flame right up on them.

Are these solid fuel engines sometimes duds?

Thanks.
p***@gmail.com
2015-07-03 13:03:29 UTC
Permalink
I bought the same setup, although the launcher uses a 9V battery. I tried all the connectivity tests and they checked out.... even had a few ignitor that you could tell were burned up and still after over 10 attempts. Nothing. Even bought a second set and they didn't work either. Can humidity be a factor?
Joe Pfeiffer
2015-07-03 17:36:08 UTC
Permalink
Post by p***@gmail.com
I bought the same setup, although the launcher uses a 9V battery. I
tried all the connectivity tests and they checked out.... even had a
few ignitor that you could tell were burned up and still after over 10
attempts. Nothing. Even bought a second set and they didn't work
either. Can humidity be a factor?
Have you tried more than one motor? Sometimes there is a little bit of
clay blocking the igniter from the fuel.

Make absolutely sure the igniter is inserted all the way into the motor.

And the best option: see if you can find a rocketry club in your area.
Rocketeers tend to be a very friendly, helpful bunch and you should be
able to get assistance.
m***@gmail.com
2015-07-17 22:36:47 UTC
Permalink
I recently had a problem with the Estes launcher at my son's cub scout rocket launch. I used a brand new alkaline battery and the continuity light illuminated, but the igniter wouldn't burn. I used someone else's launcher with the same igniter and it launched perfectly. I checked the voltage output and it is supplying 9.35 volts when the launch button is pushed...same voltage as the battery. I'm using a Rayovac alkaline 9v, and am wondering why that would be any different from an Energizer or Duracell.

Also, does anyone know what the voltage output should be when the safety key is pressed to test continuity? I'm measuring over 7v with just the continuity test. I was surprised it was that high!
David Schultz
2015-07-18 00:34:16 UTC
Permalink
Post by m***@gmail.com
I recently had a problem with the Estes launcher at my son's cub
scout rocket launch. I used a brand new alkaline battery and the
continuity light illuminated, but the igniter wouldn't burn. I used
someone else's launcher with the same igniter and it launched
perfectly. I checked the voltage output and it is supplying 9.35
volts when the launch button is pushed...same voltage as the battery.
I'm using a Rayovac alkaline 9v, and am wondering why that would be
any different from an Energizer or Duracell.
Batteries from different manufacturers are built differently which
results in differing internal resistance. Apparently the Rayovac has too
high an internal resistance.
Post by m***@gmail.com
Also, does anyone know what the voltage output should be when the
safety key is pressed to test continuity? I'm measuring over 7v with
just the continuity test. I was surprised it was that high!
Are you measuring that voltage with no igniter attached? It sure sounds
like it.
--
David W. Schultz
http://home.earthlink.net/~david.schultz
Returned for Regrooving
Joe Pfeiffer
2015-07-18 05:13:09 UTC
Permalink
Post by m***@gmail.com
I recently had a problem with the Estes launcher at my son's cub scout
rocket launch. I used a brand new alkaline battery and the continuity
light illuminated, but the igniter wouldn't burn. I used someone
else's launcher with the same igniter and it launched perfectly. I
checked the voltage output and it is supplying 9.35 volts when the
launch button is pushed...same voltage as the battery. I'm using a
Rayovac alkaline 9v, and am wondering why that would be any different
from an Energizer or Duracell.
Shouldn't matter. I wonder if you've got a marginal connection
somewhere in the controller?
Post by m***@gmail.com
Also, does anyone know what the voltage output should be when the
safety key is pressed to test continuity? I'm measuring over 7v with
just the continuity test. I was surprised it was that high!
If there's no igniter in the circuit, it's pretty arbitrary. There's a
resistor to limit current to the ignitor to avoid setting it off when
doing a continuity check; with no ignitor your voltmeter will register
something close to battery voltage (so if there's any surprise here at
all, it's that it's lower than 9V).

My real advice in all cases like this is to find a local rocket club.
Rocketeers are happy to help (to the point of kibitzing too much
sometimes!) and will be glad to look at your controller and try to
figure out what's going on.

http://www.nar.org/find-a-local-club/
a***@zoghlin.com
2015-08-22 16:14:42 UTC
Permalink
Post by Joe Pfeiffer
Post by m***@gmail.com
I recently had a problem with the Estes launcher at my son's cub scout
rocket launch. I used a brand new alkaline battery and the continuity
light illuminated, but the igniter wouldn't burn. I used someone
else's launcher with the same igniter and it launched perfectly. I
checked the voltage output and it is supplying 9.35 volts when the
launch button is pushed...same voltage as the battery. I'm using a
Rayovac alkaline 9v, and am wondering why that would be any different
from an Energizer or Duracell.
Shouldn't matter. I wonder if you've got a marginal connection
somewhere in the controller?
Post by m***@gmail.com
Also, does anyone know what the voltage output should be when the
safety key is pressed to test continuity? I'm measuring over 7v with
just the continuity test. I was surprised it was that high!
If there's no igniter in the circuit, it's pretty arbitrary. There's a
resistor to limit current to the ignitor to avoid setting it off when
doing a continuity check; with no ignitor your voltmeter will register
something close to battery voltage (so if there's any surprise here at
all, it's that it's lower than 9V).
My real advice in all cases like this is to find a local rocket club.
Rocketeers are happy to help (to the point of kibitzing too much
sometimes!) and will be glad to look at your controller and try to
figure out what's going on.
http://www.nar.org/find-a-local-club/
Funny seeing responses to a post that is almost 20 years old! I guess the fundamental issue is timeless :>
Joe Pfeiffer
2015-08-23 00:28:18 UTC
Permalink
Post by a***@zoghlin.com
Post by Joe Pfeiffer
Post by m***@gmail.com
I recently had a problem with the Estes launcher at my son's cub scout
rocket launch. I used a brand new alkaline battery and the continuity
light illuminated, but the igniter wouldn't burn. I used someone
else's launcher with the same igniter and it launched perfectly. I
checked the voltage output and it is supplying 9.35 volts when the
launch button is pushed...same voltage as the battery. I'm using a
Rayovac alkaline 9v, and am wondering why that would be any different
from an Energizer or Duracell.
Shouldn't matter. I wonder if you've got a marginal connection
somewhere in the controller?
Post by m***@gmail.com
Also, does anyone know what the voltage output should be when the
safety key is pressed to test continuity? I'm measuring over 7v with
just the continuity test. I was surprised it was that high!
If there's no igniter in the circuit, it's pretty arbitrary. There's a
resistor to limit current to the ignitor to avoid setting it off when
doing a continuity check; with no ignitor your voltmeter will register
something close to battery voltage (so if there's any surprise here at
all, it's that it's lower than 9V).
My real advice in all cases like this is to find a local rocket club.
Rocketeers are happy to help (to the point of kibitzing too much
sometimes!) and will be glad to look at your controller and try to
figure out what's going on.
http://www.nar.org/find-a-local-club/
Funny seeing responses to a post that is almost 20 years old! I guess
the fundamental issue is timeless :>
Timeless indeed! What I don't fully understand (I don't use google
groups, so I wouldn't be at all surprised out it's an artifact of that
interface) is that everybody with the question seems to tack it on the
same antique thread, instead of starting a new one. So the post I was
actually responding to was posted July 17, 2015.
m***@gmail.com
2015-07-17 22:37:10 UTC
Permalink
I recently had a problem with the Estes launcher at my son's cub scout rocket launch. I used a brand new alkaline battery and the continuity light illuminated, but the igniter wouldn't burn. I used someone else's launcher with the same igniter and it launched perfectly. I checked the voltage output and it is supplying 9.35 volts when the launch button is pushed...same voltage as the battery. I'm using a Rayovac alkaline 9v, and am wondering why that would be any different from an Energizer or Duracell.

Also, does anyone know what the voltage output should be when the safety key is pressed to test continuity? I'm measuring over 7v with just the continuity test. I was surprised it was that high!
p***@gmail.com
2015-07-03 13:03:41 UTC
Permalink
I bought the same setup, although the launcher uses a 9V battery. I tried all the connectivity tests and they checked out.... even had a few ignitor that you could tell were burned up and still after over 10 attempts. Nothing. Even bought a second set and they didn't work either. Can humidity be a factor?
p***@gmail.com
2015-07-03 13:03:44 UTC
Permalink
I bought the same setup, although the launcher uses a 9V battery. I tried all the connectivity tests and they checked out.... even had a few ignitor that you could tell were burned up and still after over 10 attempts. Nothing. Even bought a second set and they didn't work either. Can humidity be a factor?
M***@brophybroncos.org
2015-10-23 05:57:06 UTC
Permalink
Just had the same problem (20 years later). What I did was to take off the outer screws, open up the launch controller, used a screwdriver to pop off the glued-on plastic cover over the electronics, and took a look at the insides. Nothing seemed wrong, but just to check, I took it apart and checked the bulb, and it was fine. I then put the whole thing back together (minus the glued-on plastic cover, which was irreplaceable, and I just threw away. It should not cause a problem). When I tested it again, it mysteriously worked. While I never identified what was wrong with the controller, I suspect that some contact was a hairs-width away from where it was supposed to be making an electrical connection, and disassembling and reassembling closed this minute gap.

So for anyone who is reading this in the future, try just disassembling and reassembling the controller. It might just work.
m***@gmail.com
2016-01-12 21:36:32 UTC
Permalink
Wondering if someone can help.I Bought a estes Alpha III starter set
for
my son.I tryed launching but nothing happens,I checked the igniter and
made sure that the wires were not touching,and that there was good
contact with the propellent.My guess is that the launch controller that
comes with this kit does not have enough juice.This controller only takes
4 AA batterys,is this enough?
-
No. I had to use 2- 9 volts parallel to make ESTES ignitors work. Not series to make 18volts.
s***@gmail.com
2016-01-16 07:42:34 UTC
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Hi guys,my b6 engines will not fire,do they have a use by date? I have had them a few years.
Joe Pfeiffer
2016-01-18 18:17:34 UTC
Permalink
Post by s***@gmail.com
Hi guys,my b6 engines will not fire,do they have a use by date? I have
had them a few years.
No, that shouldn't be a problem. What are the symptoms?
2***@msad17.org
2016-11-17 02:38:24 UTC
Permalink
Wondering if someone can help.I Bought a estes Alpha III starter set
for
my son.I tryed launching but nothing happens,I checked the igniter and
made sure that the wires were not touching,and that there was good
contact with the propellent.My guess is that the launch controller that
comes with this kit does not have enough juice.This controller only takes
4 AA batterys,is this enough?
-
Please make sure your igniter clips aren't touching the pad that will cause a short circuit and the igniter won't get current. Im just a 12 year old that knows a lot about model rocketry.
Tom
2016-11-17 15:32:21 UTC
Permalink
[...]
Post by 2***@msad17.org
Please make sure your igniter clips aren't touching the pad that will
cause a short circuit and the igniter won't get current. Im just a 12 year
old that knows a lot about model rocketry.
Helpful advice, but you are replying to a 20 year old post...

OT: Nice to see younger generations on USENET. Please do continue to
participate, it is what keeps USENET alive...try to limit replies to
postings from this century! :)

You might consider a web search on USENET to learn more about what this
thing is and investigate some of the NNTP providers (such as
eternal-september.org) as a replacement to the Google Groups interface.

Tom
t***@gmail.com
2017-08-01 01:59:20 UTC
Permalink
I'm having the same problem. I think I'll try a new alkaline battery and see if that works.

Jody
m***@gmail.com
2017-10-08 05:09:07 UTC
Permalink
Wondering if someone can help.I Bought a estes Alpha III starter set
for
my son.I tryed launching but nothing happens,I checked the igniter and
made sure that the wires were not touching,and that there was good
contact with the propellent.My guess is that the launch controller that
comes with this kit does not have enough juice.This controller only takes
4 AA batterys,is this enough?
-
I've read not all, but quite a few of the answers here, but nobody so far has clarified whether it was the igniter that failed, or if the igniter did fire but the engine didn't start when the igniter flashed. Divide and conquer. That's the first step. If the igniter won't fire, then eliminate the motor from consideration for the time being. Have you tried more than one igniter? Sorry to ask such an obvious question, but in the interest of rigor, it needs to be asked. If more than one igniter fails, then and only then, can you be certain that the problem is generated by the electronics. I'm a retired biochemist, and my experience has always been that you can expect a successful resolution to a problem if you ask obvious questions such as the above very systematically. It's a little like asking the old question, "Did you plug it in?" and the answer is "Ooops!"
Scott Schuckert
2017-10-15 14:42:36 UTC
Permalink
Ah... You do know the problem you're attempting to solve is eleven
years old? I rather expect he's solved it by now.
Post by m***@gmail.com
Wondering if someone can help.I Bought a estes Alpha III starter set
for
my son.I tryed launching but nothing happens,I checked the igniter and
made sure that the wires were not touching,and that there was good
contact with the propellent.My guess is that the launch controller that
comes with this kit does not have enough juice.This controller only takes
4 AA batterys,is this enough?
-
I've read not all, but quite a few of the answers here, but nobody so far has
clarified whether it was the igniter that failed, or if the igniter did fire
but the engine didn't start when the igniter flashed. Divide and conquer.
That's the first step. If the igniter won't fire, then eliminate the motor
from consideration for the time being. Have you tried more than one igniter?
Sorry to ask such an obvious question, but in the interest of rigor, it needs
to be asked. If more than one igniter fails, then and only then, can you be
certain that the problem is generated by the electronics. I'm a retired
biochemist, and my experience has always been that you can expect a
successful resolution to a problem if you ask obvious questions such as the
above very systematically. It's a little like asking the old question, "Did
you plug it in?" and the answer is "Ooops!"
m***@gmail.com
2018-12-26 04:47:10 UTC
Permalink
I had a similar issue with the launch controller. everything was set up and in place. Did a countdown and... nothing! Pulled apart the controller and it appeared to be functional. New batts new rocket kit. The light would turn on and push the button but nothing. So we cut the wires from the controller, hooked up the igniter without a motor to the clips and went driect to a 9volt. The test worked and we launched two rockets multiple times.
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